I first became addicted to use custom settings on my old Canon 5D Mark II.  On the Mode Dial was the option to choose C1, C2 or C3 which were customisable pre-sets if you like.  It became extremely useful when working as I could easily switch between settings for low light, fast moving subjects etc.  And so the Fuji X100S Custom Settings are almost as useful.

The X100 had the option to store Custom Settings too and this was modified and enhanced a little for the release of the X100S.

This is based on the Fujifilm X100S but the same principles and settings can be used for the X100 too.

How to save the custom settings on the X100 and X100s

This is actually not quite as obvious as it would first seem.

The trick is to not click “Menu/OK” on “Save Current Settings” button once you have set up your custom settings.  This will actually loose the settings.  The manual does point this out and states that you must navigate to the “Save Custom Settings” option then press the left-direction key to confirm the settings.  I find it a little cumbersome to be honest.

The correct procedure is:

  • Menu / Camera 3
  • Edit/Save custom setting
  • Pick your custom setting number
  • Configure your settings
  • Do NOT press “Save Current Settings”
  • Press the Disp/Back Button
  • You will then be prompted to Save your custom settings.

X100S Custom Settings X100S Custom Settings X100S Custom SettingsX100S Custom Settings

Available X100S Custom Settings

If you are a pure RAW shooter, a majority of the custom settings will not be relevant and unless you find the Q button or the rocker switch too awkward for changing ISO you probably won’t ever use the custom settings.

That said, as someone who shoots a lot of JPG on my X100S I use the custom settings a lot, and you can configure using:

  • ISO
  • Dynamic Range
  • Film Simulation
  • White Balance
  • Colour
  • Sharpness
  • Highlight Tone
  • Shadow Tone
  • Noise Reduction

It would be great if the Custom Settings could save the whole menu configuration in the future.  I think that would make the feature even more useful than it currently is.

My Fuji X100S Custom Settings

Custom Setting #1 – this setting is mostly used in good strong light.  It’s also my only colour configured Custom Setting.  I like the Pro Neg. Hi film emulation.  You will see that I have the Noise Reduction set to -1 in each setting.  This is because I think the in camera noise reduction is a little harsh on the JPGs it produces at higher ISO and so I like to bring that down a notch.

  • ISO – 200
  • Dynamic Range – 100%
  • Film Simulation- Pro Neg. Hi
  • White Balance – Auto
  • Colour – 0
  • Sharpness – +1
  • Highlight Tone – 0
  • Shadow Tone – 0
  • Noise Reduction – -1

Custom Setting #2 – this is the setting I use for most indoor shooting.  In fact, it’s probably the custom setting that gets used the most when I use the camera at weddings.

  • ISO – 3200
  • Dynamic Range – Auto
  • Film Simulation- Black and White + R Filter
  • White Balance – Auto
  • Colour – 0
  • Sharpness – 0
  • Highlight Tone – 0
  • Shadow Tone – 0
  • Noise Reduction – -1

Custom Setting #3 – this is my “go to” setting.  I find this configuration covers almost all shooting scenarios for me.  I’m nearly always shooting people so I need a quickish shutter speed and the feature I love above all on the X100 and X100S that the X-Pro1 doesn’t have is the minimum shutter speed option.

  • ISO – Auto (Default 200ISO, Max 3200 ISO, Min Shutter 1/125)
  • Dynamic Range – Auto
  • Film Simulation- Black and White + R Filter
  • White Balance – Auto
  • Colour – 0
  • Sharpness – +1
  • Highlight Tone – 0
  • Shadow Tone – 0
  • Noise Reduction – -1
  • Dale Pearlman

    Please explain your strategy of 90% of the time using spot meter but discouraging “focus and recompose”.
    My understanding is that the x100s will only spot meter in the center of the field. Thus if you move the focus point to right side of the field, and push the AF:/AEL button, then it will focus where it is aimed at the subject on the right side, but will determine the exposure in the middle of the field which is not where the subject is located.

    The only way I can figure out how to get the camera to both focus and determine spot exposure at the same site is to keep the focus in the center position. Thus one would have to focus here, then recompose to move our subject to the right side of the image and yet be the basis of the exposure determination.

    Please explain.
    Dale out in California

    • Kevin

      Hi Dale,

      There isn’t anything in this post about spot metering or focus recompose?

      That said – I do use spot metering a lot. Especially in England when the light (or lack of it) can be very difficult to work with.

      You are right, of course, the spot metering points are only at the centre of the sensor and if you want to use spot metering, you are almost definitely going to have to focus and recompose.

      This is where locking the exposure comes into play. Focus, lock to exposure, recompose, Shoot.



      • Dale Pearlman

        Kevin: Thanks for your response. I shot a social event today and found the camera absolutely brilliant! But I came upon the following issue with the recommended “back button focusing” method.

        One starts out by choosing in the menu that the AEL/AFL button controls both focus and exposure.

        1) If one sets the focusing switch to MF, then the AEL/AFL button only controls focus. It will not lock exposure.

        2) To have the “back button method” work to both lock focus and exposure then one must set the focusing switch to AFS?

        If the second is indeed correct, then what is the advantage of pushing the back button versus just 1/2 press the shutter button? I think they would then both do the same thing.


        • Kevin

          When you depress the shutter button halfway using Manual focus it will lock the exposure. So, AEL/AFL to lock focus, press the shutter button half way to lock the exposure, recompose, then shoot.

  • Firstly Kevin, I have to say I admire your photography and have loved your reviews on the x cameras. I use the X-e2 and X100s for weddings too.
    My question is, do you find moving the focus points improves sharpness, or is it just me getting to hung up on pixel peeping!

    • Kevin

      I rarely move focal point tbh Mike. I’m a focus and recompose person myself. The only time I tend to move the focus points around are when I’m shooting landscapes or something like that. I can’t say I’ve noticed any degeneration in image quality but then I haven’t really examined it. I do know that my old Canon 5D3 was weaker on the outside points so I would not be surprised if that was the same on the Fujis.

  • Brenda

    Kevin, thank you for all the info you’ve shared on the x100s. I’m in the process of setting up my new one and learning about Fuji x’s as well. I am very sure I’m missing something quite basic here. I set up a test custom setting (no problem), however, there doesn’t seem to be a way to get out of it using the menu or Q button other than select another custom setting or changing every setting back to my usual preferences using the Q menu. I see and understand “Basic” in the Q menu refers to whatever settings are current in camera. But how to get out of custom without resetting everything is unfortunately eluding me.

    • Hi Brenda from a different Kevin. There’s no “in” a custom setting — it just provides a fast way to set up a combination of options. If you select, say, C2 then the ISO/Simulation/Sharpness etc will jump to those values, but you’re still free to alter them as you shoot. C123 are shortcuts, rather than modes.

      Q to Kevin M: given all the X-T1 knobs for key things, have you made much use of those seven(!) C shortcuts?