I’v been having the Fuji RAW v JPEG discussion with people ever since I first picked up the original Fuji X100 around four or five years ago.

Whilst the original incarnation of the X100 needed a little refinement in terms of AF and handling, the one thing that immediately captured my attention was the JPEGs that the camera produced.

Initially, I shot everything in RAW, and yet I could see these glorious technicolour previews in the viewfinder, or the deep lush monochrome images.  When I’d bring those images into Lightroom, it would tantalisingly, and very briefly, show me those previews before cruelly ripping them away and revealing the core components of the RAW file.

had a long-standing love/hate relationship with JPEG files from my Canon days.  As you may know, I’m predominately a wedding photographer and as such, workflow and time management are critical.

I’d chosen to shoot RAW+JPEG with my Canon system partly as a backup mechanism, but mostly because I really wanted the camera to do as much of the processing for me as possible.  The Canon system was close, and using its Camera Faithful profiles I at least had a good baseline for my JPEGs.  But they always still needed editing and then, apart from it being a case of speed (storage, download time etc), I may as well have simply used the RAW files.

I’m a huge believer in the fact that a camera is a tool.  If the camera can do something for me, I will allow it.

For example, I mostly shoot in “auto” mode, and I pretty much always shoot in JPEG.

Here is a little story….its true, but I’m telling you it with an element of humour as of course each user of a camera is different:

I was once at a convention and in those days I had a Canon 1DX (great camera it was too).  I was chatting to another 1DX user and we decided to compare the way our cameras were set up.

The other guy was shocked when he realised I had my camera set to “P” mode, spot metering and to shoot JPEG.

“That’s a five thousand pound camera” he said. And he was shocked.  “How can you not use all the great features?” he continued.

I looked at his camera, which was set up in fully manual, RAW to both cards, matrix metering and he had some kind of L bracket thing with a large flash unit attached.

“That’s a five thousand pound camera” I said.  “How can you spend all that money on something and not trust it to do the very thing it’s meant to do?” I continued.

Of course, that’s a little tongue-in-cheek (though its a true story), I’m very much aware that each camera can be used in very different ways.

I choose to allow the camera to do as much as possible for me, so my role is one of observer, not camera operator.

Part of that working framework for me, is to allow the camera to “process the images”.  By that, I mean, shoot in JPEG.

Its important for me to point out, as you will see in the screen cast, that this is just my preference of course.  I fully understand the reasons why people choose to shoot RAW, and I’m not here to persuade you not to do that.  I’m here to show you how I deal with the situation and processing.  

As far as I’m concerned there is no right or wrong answer to the RAW v JPEG question.

I’ve decided to do a screen cast which demonstrates the way I approach JPEG and RAW shooting.  The screen-cast below will show how I edit both and the benefits to me of shooting JPEG when shooting a large transaction of images.

You might want to turn the sound up a little, and hit Full Screen for the Screen-cast below:

In Summary ~ Main arguments in the Fuji RAW v JPEG debate:

For Jpegs

  • A much quicker in camera operation if you use CH or CL
  • A quicker (though this is partly only relevant if time is an issue) card to computer download
  • A hugely quicker Lightroom experience in terms of rendering images.
  • Editing (assuming you are happy with the JPEG) is greatly sped up

For RAW

  • Greater latitude for exposure correction
  • Lossless editing (also possible with JPEG)
  • Greater opportunity for image retouching

As mentioned above, and in the screen-cast, there are going to be many situations where only RAW will do, and really, as I shoot weddings and street photography I often have a large amount of images to edit in one go.

I’ve fallen in love with the Classic Chrome colour film simulation in the newer Fujifilm cameras.  I’m also a great fan of the Black & White + R(ed) simulation.

These are personal choices.  I like punchy, deep shadows and images that have bite and that is why I’m drawn to those film simulations.

My Fuji X-Series JPEG Settings

Every single one of my cameras, with the exception of my original X100 are set up the same.

Colour JPEG Setting for Fujifilm X-Series

I use the Classic Chrome film simulation without exception.  I like the idea of uniformity in my images, which is part of the reason I’ve adopted this film simulation.  I really do love the way the images are rendered in the camera though.

Whilst the Classic Chrome film simulation is a “little” retro, it’s not over done, and it certainly has an emphasis on the deep shadows that I like in an image.

  • Colour +2
  • Highlights -1
  • Shadows +2
  • Sharpness +2
  • Dynamic Range (Auto)
  • White Balance (Auto)
  • Noise Reduction -2

Black and White JPEG Setting for Fujifilm X-Series

For the same reason I use the Chrome simulation, I use the B&W+R film simulation for all my monochrome work.  Again, I like the paunchiness of the image and often I’m asked about the “punch” in my monochrome images.  The B&W +R film simulation, along with the settings below give me that punch.

  • Highlights -1
  • Shadows +2
  • Sharpness +2
  • Dynamic Range (Auto)
  • White Balance (Auto)
  • Noise Reduction -2

A note on the JPEG settings

  • Highlights:  I have this set to -1 as I want the camera to keep a relatively decent amount of detail in the highlights.  Because we have the EVF in the cameras, there isn’t really any excuse for shooting a poor exposure (OVF users admonished D-) ).
  • Shadows:  This is set to +2 as I want to keep those dark areas punchy.  I tend to underexpose slightly (and I use spot metering a lot), so I end up with some really deep black areas to the image.  Just as I like it.  I rarely find myself burning areas in these JPEGs as the camera has done a fine job of the overall exposure.
  • Sharpness:  I don’t use any post production sharpness.  My album producers may sharpens slightly, but for me, when shooting JPEG, I want the camera to keep the image as sharp as possible.  Less work for me afterwards.

Printing JPEG’s

I’m asked this a lot; what about printing Fuji JPEGs large?

It’s a very valid question as traditionally JPEGs haven’t held up well to large format printing.

If I were shooting a billboard campaign, then I’d be shooting in RAW.  However, I’m shooting wedding and social documentary images and I’ve never had any issue with print size.

Fujifilm have printed my images (from JPEGs) at two meters wide for conventions and I have an image on my wall in my studio that is a four foot wide print from a JPEG.

 

As ever, please feel free to leave comments below and I will get back to you.

This post isn’t meant to be about telling you how to shoot, rather telling you about how I shoot.  There are many ways to skin a cat as they say.

  • (Tuesday morning, sat in my studio in Malmesbury listening to Street Focus podcast with Valerie Jardin)
  • Friedemann Ohnmacht

    Hello Mr. Mullins,
    greetings from Germany.
    I enjoyed reading your posts and watching your photos very much. Congratulation – very good!
    And I do have one question about shooting RAW/JPEG. I couldn’t believe to read, that you shoot JPEG only in wedding photography. Really? Do you? But how can you know whilst shooting, if the image would be preferred in color or b&w? That’s one of my main reasons to shoot RAW+JPEG.

    Regards

    Friedemann Ohnmacht

    • Thanks for the comments. I’ve shot over 350 weddings now so I kind of know what I want to be in B&W and what I don’t. It comes down to emotion and light usually.

  • dang dupale

    i find the setting youve shown to be abit grainy, is that how you really wanted the pictures to be? otherwise it is still great im adopting it now with my xe2. thnks a lot other write ups on fuji x cam

    • These settings have nothing to do with noise/grain. That’s all to do with the ISO you use.

  • Matteo

    I love your photos. I own a x100s and I’ve never been missing my previous canon 6d, really. Unfortunately I can’t use classic chrome but it’s fine for me. I have a question about some shots I’ve seen in your “USING THE FUJIFILM X-SERIES TO DOCUMENT FAMILY LIFE”. Do you use any special/artistic vignetting in some photos? It seems like the vignetting is not a regular shape but goes around the subjects. Thanks, Matteo

    • Thanks Matteo – the only vignette I use is post-crop vignetting in Lightroom.

  • Yvonne

    Hi Kevin,

    As always I love your photos so getting some inside info is brilliant. Unfortunately I only have Lightroom 4.4 so I don’t have the option to select Classic Chrome in the Camera Calibration menu. I use the Classic chrome in the settings on my Xe2 but I love the punch it gives to your pictures in lightroom. As it is only possible to subscribe to lightroom now rather that purchase a newer version is there anyway I can achieve this look with my current version 4.4?
    Thank you for sharing all your tips.
    Yvonne

    • Hi Yvonne,

      I *think* you could try using the Fujifilm RAW editor Silkypix. You could apply the film simulation there and export as TIFF files and re-import those into LR.

    • Marco J Perez

      Yvonne, it is still possible to purchase a copy Lightroom 6. I just did a search for “buy Lightroom 6” and came up with a couple of options. Hope that helps.

  • Yvonne

    Will give it a try.
    Thank you.
    Yvonne

  • Bruce

    This note is for Yvonne – I see Lightroom 6 on the B&H and Amazon web sites for about $140 US. I’ve heard Adobe will keep offering Lightroom as a stand alone, and not require subscription to CC.

  • Mike

    Only a fool would should strictly JPEG, especially on an X series. I drank the Fuji paid-blogger Koolaid and grabbed an X100T and left it on JPEG only after hearing so much about the legendary X-series JPEG. Sorry, but they don’t hold up. There is definitely something Fuji is doing to the JPEGS that is both bad and good. The LMO helps for sure with regard to corner sharpness, but the very poor detail in distant scenes, even at 200 ISO is definitely not a good thing in print. It’s like a cheap watercolour Photoshop filter was applied to the background. For this reason I feel forced to shoot RAW+JPEG and have to use RAW CONVERTER EX for certain shots. It’s something I HATE to use because the interface is so crappy but unfortunately it’s the only software that faithfully duplicates the Fuji film simulations exactly.

    • It’s a real shame you chose the cowards route and didn’t include a real email address. Had you done so, I could have pointed you to places where my JPEG images are printed at two meter’s wide.

      BTW – I bought my X100T. I bought my XF35 recently. I bought an X-T1, oh and an X-E2 and around ten lenses I bought too.

      There is no “Paid Fuji Koolaid” here fella.

      In my experience, if you learn to expose correctly, the images are fine.

  • walker

    hi there,
    thanks for sharing this interesting post. One question: is there any real improvement in setting to -2 the sharpeness and change it later in LR?
    TIA

    • You can do that of course, but -2 sharpness on JPEGs will make for quite smudgy images I feel.

  • Barrington

    Thank you very much for your insights into the processes you employ to make these great images even greater. As a former DSLR user I was stuck in the RAW only mode and felt I needed to do the same with Fuji. It’s kind of liberating to be able to either use jpegs straight from the camera, or make very minor adjustments to attain the results I’m looking for. Thanks again, Kevin

  • Gaz

    Hi Kevin
    Greetings from sunny Australia. I’ve just had a good look around your site and love your photos and thank you for the info you have shared on your blog. I’m a relative newby to photography and recently bought an XT-10 and just enjoying taking pics with it. I’ve also viewed your presentations on YouTube – great! Had a chuckle over your exchange with ‘John’ above/below. Some people are too up themselves for their own good. Thanks again.

    • Thanks Gaz – I’m glad you are enjoying the site. The New Year will see some major content coming this way 🙂

  • Dear Kevin,
    I have been following your posts and all the amazing work with the Fuji Gear. I should blame you for my mass aquisition of Fuji Equipment, almost all the bodies and lenses starting with the X-100S to XT-1. I have cherished Nikon from the FM days shooting Velvias and Provias but could never settle in peace with their Digital counterparts, I have most of them too.
    Fuji, I am absolutely thrilled and only a serious user will be able to explain the tranquility of its images, sharpness, detail, color and yet some degree of softness. I agree and agree with you and the rest including Zack on why you love Fuji so much. I even went to the extent of carrying only my X100S to Hawai shedding all my other heavy gear.
    I have never done large format prints and would be grateful if you can share more insight on the maximum sizes you could pull through without upscaling. Also, would love to know more on your Gear(Fuji !) and any valuable input on X Cameras. I am buying the 27mm as well after reading your review. Would we glad to receive your email response.

    Warm Regards,
    Ravishankar

    • Thanks for the kind words Ravishankar and I will look to answer some of your queries in 2016.

  • Keith

    Hi Kevin,

    I have just bought into the Fuji X system and came across your website while searching. Early jpeg images from my X-T10 are impressive to say the least. Love the post and love the video. I too am looking to shoot primarily B&W and have been a Lightroom user since V1.1. for B&W do you use any other software alongside Lightroom e.g. Silver Flex Pro 2?

    Just looked to join you in Manchester in February but unfortunately for me it is fully booked 🙁

    Regards,

    Keith

    • Hi Keith – thanks for the comments and kind words.

      I don’t use any other software or plugins at the moment.

      Keep and eye on the workshop pages for more dates through the year.

      Thanks

      Kevin

  • Den

    My thoughts from my XT-1.

    The ‘problem’ with working with Fuji’s otherwise great jpeg engine is the NR forced upon you at high ISO (which is inevitable during a wedding). There’s nothing you can do about that in post, and looks terrible on skintones. Also in some scenarios with mixed lighting, you’re going to struggle with fixing a Jpeg and retaining true colours (although not an issue for the magic of B&W conversion).

    Setting NR-2 and Sharpness +2 is a workaround to some degree, but then your lower ISO shots will show sharpening artifacts. Using fast lenses means you can avoid high ISO to some degree of course, but it’s always about compromises with any kit.

    The best advantage to using jpeg is the workflow speed, which is your point of course. On that note, to anyone moving to a 4k display for editing, be prepared for a notably sluggish experience (due to additional rendering requirements) that makes RAW files even more time consuming to edit through.

  • Leilah Houhton

    Hi Kevin – I’m really sorry if this is a stupid question, I’m new at this! Thank you for sharing the information however what i don’t understand is why do you shoot with a colour and black and white setting? Why don’t you shoot everything in color then do a black and white conversion in Lightroom?

    Thanks
    Leilah

    • Hi Leilah,

      Its not a silly question at all. The reason being the camera itself does all the work – and a great job of it too. If I have to edit every image afterwards into black and white, that takes a lot of time. The camera does its magic for me 🙂

      I see it the same way as going to a restaurant; you go their to have the meal cooked for you and you eat it. You don’t go, get the ingredients and cook it yourself at home…..

  • Peter McKechnie

    Hello Kevin,
    Only found your website(s) last week when searching for early X-Pro2 reviews, so hope it’s not too late to post a comment or two here.
    First, what a great website and what great photographs! They’re not just great images, they are also great expressions of love and friendship, of seriousness and solemnity, of enjoyment and fun. I found myself getting quite blurry-eyed during the slideshows!
    Also, reading around the site, I’ve been inspired to be more adventurous in my photo-taking, eg using spot metering on my x100s, something I’ve never done before.
    I was particularly taken by this post as I’ve also never seriously shot JPEGs. RAW is what the professionals use, right? So, having never bothered about the in-camera settings, I duly noted the Shadows, Highlights, etc. settings. But then, reading furthur around the site, I find that elsewhere you specify quite different values. So, I’m feeling a bit lost and confused (to misquote Led Zep). Have you just changed your mind over the past couple of years or have you been refining your approach or what? As someone who really needs to get out more and take photographs rather than spending hours fiddling around in LR, I’d really appreciate some clarification.
    Once again, a great and inspiring website. Thank you for all the work you’ve obviously put in to make it so.
    Peter

    • Hi Peter – thanks for the kind message. The settings have been fairly consistent over the last few years. +2 Shadows, -1 Highlights. The very new X-Pro2 has new configurations and hence the change in settings very slightly there. It’s all down the personal taste though.

      Thanks for stopping by & I’m glad you enjoy the site.

  • Peter McKechnie

    Hello Kevin,
    I posted a comment here yesterday that has disappeared! It was really very complimentary not only about your photographs but also about the website(s) generally, so I can’t believe you’ve taken offence and removed it.
    In that comment I said that I’ve been almost exclusively shooting RAW with my x100s, so was particularly interested in this post. If, as you say, the X-Trans JPEGs are so good, and I want to spend more time taking photographs and less time in Lightroom, then shooting JPEGs would seem to be the way to go. However, the in-camera settings then become crucial (yes?). You specify the settings you use and their rationale, which is great, but in other (earlier) posts, you specify different settings. Which leaves me a bit lost, I’m afraid. Have you simply changed your mind or perhaps you’ve been refining your approach? I’d be very grateful if you could clarify.
    Peter

    • Hi Peter – you post wasn’t removed – it just takes me a couple of days to approve all the comments.

  • Thank you for this! I also own an X100T, but I have always had trouble fiddling with the simulation settings. I find myself always shooting in RAW, because I want that flexibility. But it does take a lot of time on the computer.
    Thanks for sharing your tweaked Classic Chrome settings, I will definitely try them next time I’m shooting!

  • Anders Legarth Schmidt

    Thank you for this very informative blog. One thing about your settings for chrome and BW. Do you know if it’s possible to have pre-set settings for each film mode? Or do you adjust when you go from chrome to BW?

    • Sure can Anders – You can use the custom settings options in the camera to do this.

      • Anders Legarth Schmidt

        Perfect. I will try that on my X100t. Thank you!

  • Oliver Mrowczynski

    Hi Kevin,
    Beautiful photos and your videos are so informative. I truly appreciate your time in writing all of your tips. I just had a quick question for you. I have the x100s, which obviously does not have the classic chrome setting. Which film simulation would you use on the x100s to get as close to your final colour jpeg as possible, without doing “classic chrome” film simulation in lightroom? Would it be pro neg hi?
    Also, if I wanted to shoot b and w as well as color, would is there a way to shoot both simultaneously? as in shoot one image, but get two jpegs, one with, presumably pro neg hi, and the other with b/w+R?
    Thank you so very much

    Oliver

    • Hi Oliver,

      Thanks for your message.

      Yes, in the X100S I would shoot Pro Neg Hi.

      You can use the JPEG bracketing option in your camera to shoot three different jpegs. You can do Pro-Neg, B&W+R and Sepia for example. You take one image, and the camera does the rest 🙂

  • Thanks a lot! This was just what I was looking for. Encouraging. I always shot in raw but it takes a lot of time and energy just looking through (often dull looking) files. So – I thought about going back to shooting film just to get nice colors without tweaking to much at the computer. Seeing a working pro shooting jpeg – thats just WOW. Inspiring. Love your photos by the way..
    Greetings Jens

  • Oliver Mrowczynski

    Hello Kevin,

    Thank you for your earlier reply, and for the information, again, I truly appreciate it. On this page your settings are highlights – 1, shadows +2, sharpness +2, and NR at -2. But on an older article “X100s custom settings”, you have the highlights and shadows at 0, the sharpness +1, and noise reduction at -1. Are the newer settings not the ones you use on the x100s? Or do you use these newer settings on the X100s, but just changed them as your style changed a little bit?
    Thank you again!

    Sincerely,
    Oliver

    • That must be a much older post Oliver. I’ve used the current settings for well over two years now. Definitely, -1, +2 for highlights and shadows 🙂

  • As’ad Nazif

    Hi Kevin!

    Awesome stuffs! Just wanna ask, do you import your exposures from camera to another software such as Capture One before you import to lightroom?

    I dont really remember what I watched, but if you do, does it help retain image quality better than straight to lightroom?

    I don’t remember from where I’ve seen it, but I just wanna know if you do. And also, just to add, what’s your strategy to catalog your photos efficiently? 🙂

    • It all comes straight to LR As’ad. While the X-Pro2 was a prototype I used to take those RAW files into Silypix and save as Tiff – but that was only because I had no way of getting the Raw’s into Lightroom. Lightroom now fully supports X-Pro2 files though.

      Catalogs; I use one per wedding. Then I also have a Yearly Finals which holds all the final edited images throughout the year.

  • Hi, Kevin, thanks for this helpful and encouraging article, I will have my first wedding documentation tomorrow as a replacement for a friend. I always shoot in RAW and now the my friend told me that I have to shoot in JPEG, so I searched google for JPEGs settings for my X-T1 and found this website, just what I’m looking for. I’m new at this so I will give your settings a try.

  • fernando de france

    Hello Kevin Mullins, thanks for sharing all your knowledge, it is great coming from such an artist. Your work is stunning, great taste and sensitivity, really beautiful photographs. Many congratulations and best of lucks for you, I hope we can see a lot more of your work in years to come.
    Best wishes from Málaga.

  • Philip Plummer

    Hi Kevin, I was so glad I found your website after seeing the video clip on using Fuji X cameras for your work. On the back of this inspiration I bought an X-Pro2 and have just taken it on a trip to India… and tried your settings.
    Oh wow!… so pleased with the results so a big thank you! Having sold all my Nikon lenses it was a total pleasure using the new less conspicuous light weight kit…. it just felt so right in the hand (18-55, 35mm and 56mm).
    Whilst I was away your book was delivered so look forward to reading that,
    Just one question if I may, for ‘exhibition’ quality printing do you have any printing companies you could recommend for both Color and Black and White printing?
    Thanks and best wishes
    Philip

    • Hi Philip – thanks for the nice message and I’m pleased you are loving the camera.

      All my printing is done via One Vision in Coventry, or Genesis in London.

  • Hi Kevin,

    I’ve been shooting with the X-Pro1 since 2012 and like many others, I have come to follow a few X-photographers such as yourself over the years. Bert, David, Zac and you are my biggest inspiration!

    I adore the look of your photos, so I was really happy when you decided to share your in-camera settings for B&W!

    Recently I picked up the X-Pro2 which I enjoy shooting with immensely! Definitely a step up from the first generation! With the new camera and all of its settings (+4 Sharpening, -4 NR etc.), I was wondering if you’ve changed your in-camera settings for shooting weddings in terms of Film Simulation (Acros+R?), Sharpness, NR, Grain, Highlights, and Shadows? If so, would it be possible for you to update/make a new post about the settings you use, similar to the two above?

    Cheers!

    • Hi Axel – check out the latest blog post on this site 🙂

  • Tom

    Great post Kevin – thanks. I have just moved to Fuji from Nikon and I am finding your site a great resource for real life feedback and tips on the fuji system.

  • Enrique Estrada

    Kevin: After more than 20 years using DSLR (Nikon) I changed to Fuji, just a few weeks ago I started using the XE-2S. The reason: a lighter alternative, and mainly what you see is what you get! Wonderful experience, more options to creativity and imagination as well as previsualization is there. I’ve all the blogs surrounding Fujifilm cameras and experiences, something that the manuals can’t provide. And mostly blogs like yours that give us ideas and alternatives…I love that comment on bracketing film modes in jpg, the myth on raw and jpg. As we all know a well exposed image plus all the well known compositional aspects need very few post-processing touches. Back in the wonderful analogic darkrom lab it was a matter of dodge, burn, split developing and voila! Today the excellent options and resources in digital photography are really awesome, in the end is not gear, gadgets but the vision and eye of the photographer basically. So, your comments and expertise with Fuji is giving me the tools to get the most of Fuji camera. I’ve noticed too the myriad of articles marketing X-Pro 2 ( if your budget allows) or the X-70….I imagine they have to promote the new stuff that’ how I landed with the XE-2S. Easy, and gives me what I look for. Again, thanks for your practical advices.
    Sincerely,
    Enrique Estrada

    • Thanks Enrique and I hope you are continuing to have fun with your XE-2S.

  • Bob

    I bought an X100T last year and the first thing I did was order four unretouched 12X18″ prints from Adorama because I had read all this stuff about Fuji cameras and was concerned. They were straight JPEGS at default settings with no change to sharpening, NR, or tone. As I expected, the “artifacts” that people complain about regarding Fuji cameras do not appear in prints. Yes, I can see some skin weirdness at very high ISOs on my computer screen but again, it does not appear in prints.

    Having said that, I still use RAW+JPEG because I like to change shots in-camera to see the different film effects. However, I never process the RAWs. I keep them, but sometimes I wonder why? They take up so much room and I don’t have a huge ego about my photography. While it’s nice to think that 40 years from now our images will be incredibly important, the reality is our era will be very uninteresting to the future since there’s way too many photographs being made. Not to mention, I really don’t think my heirs will want to go through hard drive after hard drive looking though images of mine.

  • Hello. I have a question; as you know Lightroom offers all the film simulations of the Fuji. Is there any difference in IQ when doing the conversion in LR vs in camera? Also, if one is shooting solely in RAW, would all the custom settings be negated?

    • Hi John,

      In my opinion, yes, there is a large difference between Fuji JPEGs and Fuji RAWs processed with the Light Room Film simulations. I always prefer the camera to do the work. Unfortunately, any settings you make in camera (such as Shadows, Highlights etc) will not be applied when using the RAW / LR Film Simulation route. You’ll need to shoot JPEG for those to come across.

  • Hi kevin, why do you set NR-2? It means you’re redusing noise by 2 points? Is that meant to give you the flexibility to shoot at high ISO if needed?
    I won’t get tired of thanking you for sharing and congratulate for yor work!
    Cheers from a Swiss/Argentinian living in Switzerland!

    • Hi Valentin – I’m basically telling the camera to use less NR on its JPEG files. I don’t particularly like the harsh noise reduction in the Fuji cameras (though its much better now with the X-Pro2 and the X-T2).

  • david

    Hi Kevin,
    I am very impressed with your route. For me, it is quite the opposite. Coming from a small Nikon V1 camera, I never touched the jpgs and continued to do process raw files with my X100T (although I record both RAF+JPEG, don’t know why, bc I delete them after import anyway). I try to expose highlight sensitive with +1.0 EV spotmetering.
    That said, recently I recognised a strong tendency on my images to overprocess them, that I was not aware of. I tended to “develop” them in a HDR-like fashion (highlights down, shadows up) to have an impression of more dynamic range in all my images. In print, it sometimes is too much… A particular image that friends printed looked so bad… I was quite ashamed, to be honest.
    I think, for the next couple of weeks, I will concentrate more on the jpgs and think about the right exposure more.

  • Hello Kevin, I have been accompanying your work and that of other photographers, and very sincerely …. you are right …. just like in soccer we are all referees … in photography it is no different …. each one Is the best photographer and has the solution. But what we are discussing is the final result of the photography …. and come the pseudo RAW’s, come the ereges of the JPGS’s …. there’s the great photography and the shitty photography. ! I with the x100T do not waste my time burning the eyelashes, and sometimes ruining instead of improving …. my precious time is on the street !!! Yes I have configured RAW + JPEG monochrome R, RAW is converted to the camera if I want color simulation …. 95% of my “LR” is with the Snapseed on the coffee table or the shade of a tree in a garden. … each one spend as long as you want … but at least submit some quality photos. Big huge K

  • Alexander Groeger

    Hi Kevin,
    maybe a silly question. Where can I find the camera profiles (Fuji film simulations) in Lightroom? Using the latest version and the X100F (brand new). All what I can find is “embedded”, nothing else. Cheers Alex

    • They are only there for RAWfiles. Jpegs will show ’embedded’

  • Wayne Rogge

    Kevin
    This is meant to be additional support for the use of JPEG vs RAW. I have slowly given up shooting RAW and must say, it does not at all impact my photos overall. Of course, there are always going to be a few that RAW would have helped salvage. But, a few photos here and there cannot compare to the saving of time, energy and space. Bravo for the stand you have taken on this subject. I am not a professional. I am a photo enthusiast who has devoted much time to “understanding” what my cameras (XPro2;X100F and XT1) have to offer. Finally, as you have so clearly stated, let the camera do as much of the work as possible. Consequently, I can spend more time looking at what might make a worthwhile photograph. Regards…..Wayne

  • Kevin,
    Your website is the last I came to at the end of a VERY long day reading through the Fuji raw vs jpeg debate and I must say, it was welcome relief. I come from a Fuji film background, so I was delighted when after trying Canon and Olympus and missing the film-like feel of a camera, I purchased a Fuji XT1. Being familiar with getting results in camera rather than post, I have been very happy with the look of my jpegs, but continue to succumb (until now) to the pressure of shooting raw, feeling like I must be missing something, as it seems almost everyone shoots raw and can be very myopic about it. I’m primarily a nature photographer using my Fujinon 56mm wide open or my Lensbaby Velvet 56 macro, both of which render soft and dreamy images and would be interested in how your in camera settings might change for that type of photography? Also, I have noticed a vast difference in the size of my jpeg vs raw images with my XT1, jpegs are approx 3 – 5MB, while the raw images are 30-34MB. There are quite a few posts about this difference on the Fuji board (http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/jpeg-file-size.59151/), but not much info other than the Fuji T10 and X100 jpeg files are larger. My only concern is in trying to sell my images to stock agencies with a minimum requirement of 4MB. Your images are spectacular, as is your website – thank you SO MUCH for your advice and inspiration!

    • Thanks Parrish and yes, there is a HUGE difference int he file size. As I say, RAW suits some, and JPEG others. There is no “right or wrong”, that’s for sure. Thanks for stopping by the blog.

  • Norbert Nagy

    Hi Kevin.

    This post when it was out made me fall in love with fuji x100t.
    Finally I purchased one and tried your settings straight away and I love them so much. Still a lot of experimenting ahead but I’m excited about it. I want to prove that straight out of camera jpegs with the correct exposure are as good or better than raws.

    Thank you.

  • david

    I’m not Kevin or a professional in any way.
    And I do love my X100T which produces good (enough) images for me.

    But if you want to prove, that OOC jpgs are better than raws, you will fail, in my opinion. Not because raw is better than fuji rendered jpg, but because there is no better or worse.
    You can duplicate the individual look of the jpg engine using a raw file easily, yet It is not so easy in batch, because a single profile will not do the job because of the specifics of a scene that the fuji engine will render differently.
    That doesn’t mean that either is superior to the other.
    Many people, me included, record jpg+raw and see what works best. I rarely use the jpgs because I like contrasty and colourful images that need scene-specific corrections. But then again I take the time to “develop” them myself which can be a big deal if there are hundreds of images. But isn’t it fun to play with an image in post?

    • Hi David,

      I’m not sure if you actually read the post or listened to the video – but I’m not out to prove anything, rather show the way I do things.

      And no, for me, it’s not fun to play with an image in post. I find editing tedious and monotonous and I’d rather be playing with my kids than sitting in front a computer.

      Thanks,

      Kevin

  • david

    Hi Kevin,
    yes, I red the post and watched the video.
    I actually enjoy your tip of highlight +2 and shadow +2 in B/W very much and glued my X100T to these settings.
    It produces very contrasty monochromes and helps with red focus peaking.

    I was referring to Norbert Nagys bost above (“I want to prove that straight out of camera jpegs with the correct exposure are as good or better than raws”).

    And I get your point of saving time, but then again photography is a hobby for some instead of an assignment. and your kids have to sleep at one point (mine do 🙂

    • Ah, OK – sorry, I thought the comment was generally about the post. Misunderstanding on my part 🙂

      Have a great day,

      Kevin

  • Valentin Minguez

    Hi Kevin,
    have a doubt: when shooting raf+jpeg is there any way to “customize” as to say the RAF? for example: can I had shadows and colour (you name it) BEFORE shooting? At my work they demand the RAW files but those, in my case, are largely different as the jpeg’s, the difference is huge between the same image raw and jpeg…. SO I want to tweak the raw file to deliver images that reflect my style. I know it can be done in LR but I don’t want to spend hours and hours editing my snaps, I shoot nearly 100 photos per day… that would be a tremendous lost of time.
    is that possible?????
    Thanks Kevin,
    cheers from the sunny Lugano, Switzerland

    • Hi, Valentin – not really. RAW files will always be raw. You could set up an import preset in Lightroom where it automatically applies one of the film simulations.